Highlights from Monday’s shows:
GIORGIO ARMANI DEFENDS ELEGANCE
Against the onslaught of streetwear and dressing, Giorgio Armani defends elegance in all seasons.
The 87-year-old designer’s Spring-Summer 2023 collection mixes the classics with more unusual iterations, as the fashion world demands. Offering elegance is more and more a solitary job.
“I don’t know when we will feel the loss of the man who goes through life with such refinement,” the designer said after the show.
For its main line, Armani focused on casual, casual suits, for day or evening. There was movement in the baggy pants and jackets, but also in the repetitive graphic prints that create the effect of waves. Print-on-print looks are decidedly modern.
“It’s true that it’s nice to see a well-dressed man in a suit. But it’s also nice to see the evolution of fashion. Bring the basics, I’ve always done them in my life. It’s also true that (the market) demands novelty,” Armani said.
On that front, Armani has created tunic-length tops. Jackets and shirts have a shine rarely seen in menswear. A well-tied scarf replaces a shirt under an open jacket. A scarf creates a sweeping effect on a white suit.
The color palette was rooted in the seaside white and navy combo, blending into shimmering shades of blue and gray before exploding into combinations of purple, pink and seafoam green.
The shoe of the season is a no-frills sneaker, replacing the sneaker of past seasons, and which Armani himself wore, showing them off with a wry laugh. The caps had no brim, to better show the face.
“Acceptable. Credible. More assured,” Armani said when summarizing the collection.
GUCCI UNVEILS THE HAHAHA COLLECTION
Alessandro Michele has teamed up with Harry Styles for an off-season collection that combines couture with teenage freedom. The collection is called “HaHaHa”, exploiting a feeling of joy and also the expression of their initials: Harry and Alessandro.
“In truth, it was easier for him to play with me to design clothes than for me to sing with him,” Michele joked with reporters during a preview of the collection at a vintage store in Milan.
Harry Styles had just embarked on his solo career when Michele exploded into the fashion world offering what was a new era of flowing clothing, looks that immediately appealed to Styles. Michele said the singer incorporated one of his first pieces as creative director of Gucci into his wardrobe when he came out of “One Direction.”
The relationship has grown over the years and takes off in frequent fashion-inspired exchanges on WhatsApp.
“Sometimes WhatsApp becomes a mood board,” Michele said. Although two decades of age apart, the two have found common ground in fashion: Michele says Styles has restored a kind of teenage joy, while Styles has matured into more tailored looks. The double influence is present in the new collection.
The pair created a series of endearing prints against gingham, featuring the collection’s mascot, a grumpy teddy bear, as well as a munching squirrel and a combination of sheep and cherry. Gucci creates bespoke suit jackets from the prints and pairs them with colorful wide leg pants or distressed jeans. Prints are repeated on pajamas, while patches infuse fantasy on a knit or a ribbed white tank top. Accessories include an updated Jackie bag covered in eyelets.
Mixed on the shelves of the vintage store, the Gucci HaHaHa collection was often difficult to distinguish from the stock.
“It’s a big compliment to me that it’s mistaken for vintage,” Michele said. “Vintage means well made.”
JOEONE PERFECTS SUMMER PANTS
French designer Louis-Gabriele Nouchi understood the mission of warm-weather dressing, creating easy-to-wear yet distinctive summer looks for Chinese brand Joeone, built around trousers.
Nouchi’s designs paired Chinese drapes with athletic hiking pants, including piping and secret utility pockets.
An impression of Wang Ximeng’s “A Thousand Miles of Rivers and Mountains” Chinese landscape, with bold brushstrokes of blue, green and ocher, created the motif of the season. Paint details appear as a graphic print on wide leg trousers, but also in more subtly printed designs on jeans.
Shirtless models strolled through the sunny courtyard of Milan’s Sforzesco Castle, shirtless showing how the trousers sat perfectly on the waist.
“You have to wear the clothes to see the comfort. To be honest, pants are the most difficult piece to make in the male wardrobe,” Nouchi said. “They have to be functional, they have to be comfortable. They really set the tone of the silhouette, I think, more than the jacket.”
ZEGNA GOES BACK TO BASICS
Zegna invited the fashion crowd for a sunset show atop its factory in the Piedmont region, overlooking a sprawling natural park owned by the Zegna family and highlighting the industry’s tight supply chain control. family business.
The collection was imbued with lightness, form and materials.
The shapes are essential, bordering on minimalism, ranging from sportswear with trousers or bermudas to tunics with inventive twists or intarsia knits reminiscent of impressionist landscapes. Finer knits were almost sheer, with hints of sheen that caught the glint of light. The bags include macrame shoulder bags.
The color palette of tobacco, brown, coffee with light blue and grounded dusty pink.
Zegna is moving towards a more sustainable use of materials, deploying fabric scraps and recycled materials, while maintaining strict control of its own supply chain from animal to fiber to garment, and investing in new sustainable production processes.
To that end, Zegna has pledged to plant 10,000 new trees in every city where it opens a new store from 2023.